Slainte Pub is the warm hearth of Fells Point. Pronounced slan-cha (which means “to your health” in Gaelic), this Irish restaurant is cozy, comfortable and perfect for dark and cold winter nights.

Inside, the lighting is soft and honey gold next to deep burgundy walls.

At the downstairs bar, drinkers can get comfortable on large cushioned bar stools in front of a big screen TV or sit at tables to sample appetizers like boxties (stuffed Irish potato cakes) or steamed clams.

But my advice is to head straight upstairs.

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On the second floor, patrons sit comfortably in tall upholstered benches and bar stools around tall dark wood tables. A large, long nonsmoking bar room holds plenty of people, and the whole place has a warm buzz of energy.

Patrons are a mixed crowd: young professionals, migrants from other neighborhoods looking for a good honest shepherd’s pie and local Fells Point residents hungry for the best fish and chips on the block.

Service at Slainte is perfectly slow; our pound of steamed shrimp arrived timed just right with our second round of chocolatey Guinness drafts and Stellas.

The shrimp, recommended by our bartender, were good and served in a shallow bowl full of seasoning and garlick flavors. Thick yellow wedges of lemon accompanied the dish, and worked well to freshen our fingers.

On a menu full of traditional Irish items like corned beef and swiss on rye and black and white pudding, the fish and chips were slightly overshadowed. But we found the $11 meal and ordered it.

Two large hunks of glowing white cod arrived plated next to golden potato wedges covered in coarse pepper. The outside of the fish was flavorful and crispy; the cod was plump and deliciously cooked to texture perfection. The chunky tartar sauce added a subtle tang to the full and warm flavors in the fish and chips.

Two more draft beers and we were full of warm food and happy with this Fells Point restaurant.

aminkowski@baltimoreexaminer.com