Great Greek grapes

WASHINGTON (Map, News) - I have a new favorite grape. It may not be my absolute favorite, but one that my palate is thrilled to have “discovered.” Three guesses. OK, I’ll tell you. Moschofilero. Huh? Yes, this aromatic white grape from Greece has continually wowed me over the last year and finally, I cannot keep it a secret anymore. Moschofilero is the new black, or more appropriately, white.

Moschofilero first came across my radar screen about two years ago, but it is an ancient grape that has been grown in the Peloponnesus for centuries. Once thought to be related to traminer, as the aromatics may sometimes suggest, recent genetic research is pointing to grapes from Greece’s eastern coast. It is actually a pink-skinned grape, one of several Greek grapes that is used to make white wines, and it is sometimes used to make rosé.

Most moschofilero is made in Mantinea, the location of an important battle during the Peloponnesian War. At an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet, Mantinea has a semicontinental, cool climate, making it a happy home for white wine production. High in acid with moderate alcohol and body, moschofilero has a clean, mineral character with floral overtones and often peach, apricot and citrus flavors. It is not meant for aging, at least from what I can tell, but provides a refreshing alternative for those who like crisp white wines.

Three Moschofileros to try:

Domaine Spiropoulos, 2005

Established in 1860, Domaine Spiropoulos has been a certified organic producer since 1996. This is uber-minerally, with shades of lime and kumquats.

» Suggested retail: $17.99

Moschofilero, Domaine Tselepos, 2005

Domaine Tselepos is one of the rising stars in the Greek wine world. Yiannis Tselepos studied oenology at Dijon, the UC Davis of Burgundy, and trained in Burgundy before coming back to Greece. I’ve tasted a couple of vintages of this wine and the consistency seems to be there, as this is as vibrant as the 2004 with stony, limelike fruit and enrapturing mineral and floral aromatics. Tselepos also makes a sparkling wine from moschofilero called the Amalia Brut that is also very pleasant.

» Suggested retail: $15.99

Moschofilero, Domaine Skouras, 2005

George Skouras is another Dijon-trained winemaker who went back to Greece and built a winery. That was in 1986, before anyone paid attention to Greek wines aside from an occasional nasty bottle of Retsina. Today he is one of the most influential and highly regarded winemakers in the Peloponnesus. Floral, apricot and guava fruit with bright acidity and a long finish.

» Suggested retail: $14.99

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