Agraria arrived on the Georgetown waterfront this year with as much promise as any restaurant in recent memory. A gorgeous space owned by a cooperative of North Dakota farmers, it focuses on sustainable and organic produce.

Now, after a rocky start, the kitchen is catching up with the concept under chef Ricky Moore.

Wine has been a part of the program from the beginning. The massive restaurant’s wine room, a private space for 12, holds 1,000 bottles on the walls for its guests to gaze at from the round table in the center. It has been the scene for many a private dinner, complete with wine pairings by Brian Murphy, the restaurant’s beverage director.

The Connecticut native oversees a list of about 150 bottles. Prior to joining the opening team at Agraria, he spent time at Left Bank, Whitlow’s on Wilson and the now-defunct Wine Bar in Georgetown.

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A former stockbroker, Murphy got the wine bug at Hobart and William Smith College in New York’s Finger Lakes region, where he had a chance to take classes in winemaking and spend time at the various wineries. Then, he said, he started taking classes in Boston, “until, I felt, this is my calling.”

“The more you learn, the more interesting it becomes,” he said. Now, Murphy is taking classes toward his advanced certification in the Masters of Wine program.

Meet the sommelier

Q How does your concept affect the wine list? Does organic and sustainable farming inform your choices?

A It’s tough but easier than you think [to find vintners]. We like most of them to practice sustainable viticulture. All the wines with our logo [next to them] are either organic or sustainable [including Frog’s Leap, Pine Ridge, Duckhorn, Chehalem].

This is the path that most wineries are going. It’s better for the land and the grapes. This makes it easier to find the wines, too.

We don’t have big, corporate wines, but rather more family-owned vineyards to go along with the farmer-owned concept. These are some vineyards you know and some vineyards you may not be familiar with.

Q What about the grapes and regions you feature?

A We wanted to satisfy everyone’s palate but vary it with the seasons. Our menu changes seasonally as well so we try to keep that in sync.

Q Do you sell anything that’s not on the list?

A Yes, but we are in the process of setting up a reserve list. We have a good amount of storage. It will be about 50 bottles.

Q What should wine drinkers be paying attention do these days?

A The malbecs from South America right now are on fire, especially as we’re getting into the colder months. They’re not outrageously expensive, so people can try them easily.

Also, pinot noir from New Zealand — that’s going to be the upcoming region for [the grape]. It might even surpass sauvignon blanc there.

Q What’s your desert island bottle?

A Etude Heirloom Pinot Noir

Agraria is located at the Washington Harbour, 3000 K St. NW, 202 - 298-0003; www.agrariarestaurant.com.