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Gene Darny: Lotta's Bakery owner cooks up sweet snacks
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Related Topics: SAN FRANCISCO
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Gene Darny says he is proud that Lotta's Bakery is thriving in a time when neighborhood bakeries are on the decliine.
SAN FRANCISCO (Map, News) - Gene Darny, owner of Lotta’s Bakery on Polk Street, says an industrywide decline in small neighborhood bakeries might discourage most prospective pastry entrepreneurs, but for him, it became an opportunity.
Because Darny’s is the only shop in the bustling Polk Street district capable of handling immediate or peculiar custom orders, he has established a modest kind of monopoly in the area. Offering bread as well as cakes and cookies, Darny usually bakes with butter but even makes vegan pastries upon request.
“There are no neighborhood bakeries in this neighborhood at all,” Darny said. “The closest place where you can walk to around here and get a cake is in Chinatown.”
According to Darny, numerous bakeries in The City have shut down as their proprietors aged and retired. Darny recalls at least six small bakeries that served the Castro neighborhood when he was growing up there.
Lotta’s, which opened in May 2007 with the help of the nonprofit Urban Solutions, is named after Darny’s drag alterego, Lotta. The name is taken from that of Lotta Crabtree, a wealthy 19th-century stage performer who cared for and entertained refugees after the 1906 earthquake. Darny said the character came to life when he needed an outfit for a Halloween party 12 years ago.
“About the only time I dress up anymore is for that party,” Darny said. “It’s a lot of work.”
Most of the snacks under the glass at Lotta’s Bakery are identified by a card with a little figure of a mustachioed man in an apron or a “woman” in dazzling dress, or both. Both are Darny — but he says he seldom wears anything but baker’s attire to work.
Darny said he has dressed in women’s clothes when out with friends since his 20s, but despite harboring hopes for a career in theater, he never performed in drag. He was a theater and arts major at San Francisco State University, but left after discovering that, though he already worked professionally in costumes art, many of his instructors were not employed in the business.
He worked in theater for 13 years before deciding on a career change. He applied to the California Culinary Academy and after a short while, learned he really wanted to do pastry.
Darny worked 11 years as a pastry chef in various restaurants and as a baker before thinking about opening his own shop. But it was 15 more years until Lotta’s Bakery became a reality.
The shop is decorated with works provided by Darny’s partner, who collects and deals fine-art prints. Darny said the prints do sell frequently, but he does not consider the space a gallery.
As far as there being any parallels between Darny’s drag life and his bakery work, the baker says both pursuits are artistic.
“I’ve always made my living being creative,” Darny said.
Comments from Examiner Readers
2:46 PM MST on Thu., Jul. 10, 2008 re: "Dave Labuda: Former tech pioneer focuses on his restaurant, Cetrella"
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Bhaskar Gorti said:
I can lick my eyebrows at Cetrella
5 agree | 5 disagree
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Examiner Reader said:
Congratulations to Deryk! He's a great example of what civil engineering and ASCE is all about. And thanks to the Examiner for running this story. Civil Engineers aren't flashy and nobody makes movies about us... so good press is always welcomed. What we do touches everybody every day. Way to go Deryk! Doug Taylor, PE, M.ASCE President, San Francisco Section ASCE
6 agree | 6 disagree
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Examiner Reader said:
Jeanette Bitz seeems to have more of an advertising ("look at me folks") mindset than true public relations as it seems she, not her clients, come first. In Australia we'd say her story is an ego-driven way to use a weak peg on client relationships to tell a story about herself. Boo.
14 agree | 8 disagree
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Examiner Reader said:
Dan Angel is nothing but a practiced self-promoter. I feel sorry for everyone there at Golden Gate U.
7 agree | 4 disagree
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Examiner Reader said:
Ben this is Big Shon man. If I had the time to tell you how in so many ways you have changed my life,Id be here hours. Thanks Shon
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Examiner Reader said:
It seems to me that "green" living has become as much a marketing ploy as anything else. living "green" is not new (there was an ecology movement in the 70's) and is arguably simple common sense. When I was young my parents regularly reinforced in child's terms its best not to "mess where you eat!"
7 agree | 4 disagree
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Examiner Reader said:
I've worked with Erika Taylor and Three Girls Media for 2 years now. My business has been revolutionized thanks to her innovative approach. It's good to see her getting recognition for the great work she and her company does.
7 agree | 6 disagree
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recent San Francisco Home Buyer said:
Frankly, I don't see the need for real estate agents - and the 6% commission is proportionately excessive compared to the home values in San Francisco. Most of the homes in San Francisco sell themselves and it is easy to shop for homes online. In my house hunting experience, the real estate agent merely carried the keys to various houses. I don't really need someone to point out which room is the bathroom and which room is the kitchen. And I'm not really sure what a top producer is - since the agent isn't producing anything... except more fees in a (nearly) fixed inventory market. I'm sure Barbara is good person. But, as real estate prices continue to climb in San Francisco, Real estate agents are slowly becoming a pariah to home buyers and sellers in this City.
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