If there was an award for “chef who succeeded under the most adverse location,” Tom Power would have been a contender nearly every year.

Since 2000, Power won an extremely loyal following for his innovative, well-executed American cuisine at Corduroy, despite being marooned on the second floor of the Sheraton Four Points at 12th and K streets.

At long last, this February, Power left the Sheraton. Earlier this spring, he reopened a few blocks away on Ninth Street Northwest, under the same name, but under his own direction and ownership.

The scene

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Unlike many other new restaurants, the scene here is — shhh!! — quiet. The two-level converted row house reminded me of walking through a model unit in a new condo building. Everything glistens, from the amber light fixtures to the modern art on the walls (perhaps because the lighting is distractingly bright). In some spots, I could still smell the varnish on the blond wood moldings throughout. Management also attempts to stay classy: When you reserve, you’re reminded that hats and shorts are not permitted (not that that’s too high a bar, but any more might be a bit too much to ask in these days of flip-flops and T-shirts).

The pour

The restaurant deserves plaudits for its well-selected and — more importantly — well-priced wine list. Ever wanted to try a Napa cabernet from the banner year of 1997? Or a bottle from a top producer like Shafer or Joseph Phelps? You can do it here, for a lot less than at other restaurants downtown.

The taste

If you’re familiar with Power’s work, you won’t notice any radical changes. The menu remains largely the same from the previous location, although the former apprentice to Michel Richard will tinker depending on what’s locally available. You might start with a salad augmented with duck leg and duck egg. Or Hawaiian kampachi (a cousin to tuna) with braised radishes. Or peekytoe crab soup with egg custard, whose remarkable flavor and texture belies its off-putting gray color. My pick was the paper-thin slices of lobster carpaccio, with drawn butter and chervil. From there, it’s on to melt-in-your mouth sea scallops with bok choy, a rich ribeye of veal with polenta and maitake mushrooms or pan-seared turbot, to name a few.

The touch

Nearly all of Power’s staff made the trip with him, and it shows. Service is formal (waiters wear suits) yet deeply knowledgeable about the menu and wine lists.

Don’t miss

The delicious crispy soft shell crabs with verjus. Get ’em while they’re still in season.

Why you won’t go

The location, directly across from the convention center on a block that’s still very much “in transition,” is in something of a no-man’s land.

Why you will go

For a quiet anniversary dinner that’s a destination in itself, more so than for a raucous reunion of friends.

Corduroy

1122 9th St. NW

202-589-0699

corduroydc.com

jdufour@dcexaminer.com