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Ed Gerber, of D.C., has lunch at Tackle Box with a few friends. – Eric Salzberg for the Examiner
WASHINGTON (Map, News) - A collective gasp went up from Georgetowners when they discovered their beloved Georgetown Bagelry was closing last year. But they’re breathing easy now. Not only is the bagelry looking to reopen nearby, but what replaced it has proved more than worthy of their dining dollars.
Tackle Box is the second concept by ascendant chef Barton Seaver (his first, the destination-dining Hook, is next door). The new casual eatery replicates a New England fish shack, but with the twist provided by Seaver’s passionate attention to sustainable fishing and environmental awareness.
- The Scene
To be in a place like this, you might actually miss the sunburn on your neck and sand in your shorts. Weathered ceiling beams and cedar tiles, buoys and beach signs dominate the décor. An 1870 U.S. flag hangs from one wall. Dining is done on communal picnic tables, and chalkboards take the place of menus.
- The Pour
Refreshing house-made lemonades and iced teas are the order of the day here, because going back 35 years to the beginnings of the bagelry, the property is not licensed to serve liquor.
- The Taste
When you belly up to the counter, you might start with half a pound of peel-and-eat shrimp or a respectable clam chowder. Fried clams, calamari or oysters are a hit-and-miss proposition: sometimes crispy and golden, other times limp and greasy. The “Maine Meal” is the centerpiece of things here: one piece of fish, grilled or fried, plus two sides. Among the former, you won’t find halibut, salmon or cod, but rather more sustainable species like tilapia, trout and bluefish (don’t worry, it’s fresh enough not to be oily and strong — in fact, it’s my favorite).
Top picks among the sides include a sinfully creamy mac and cheese, braised greens with ham and Southern-style hush puppies. One major disappointment was the bland lobster roll. Despite the large chunks of lobster meat, I found myself begging for a hint of lemon, chives, anything to bring some flavor out of the sandwich. I fared much better with the fried clam roll — summer vacation on a plate.
-The Touch
The staff here is friendly and quick with a recommendation for those who might be unfamiliar with the fish selections. Thanks to the high table turnover, however, sometimes they have a hard time keeping up as they try to clean the tables. The result? You’re liable to put your elbow in a spot of ketchup as you sit down.
- Don’t Miss
The delicious blueberry pie, laced with cinnamon and boasting a thick, buttery crust.
- Why You Won’t Go
We go back to the liquor license. When fried seafood is in one hand, it feels odd when a beer isn’t in the other.
- Why You Will Go
To grab a meal to go. Specifically, the lobster pots to go for $40 per person — a Maine lobster, mussels, clams, corn on the cob, potatoes and chorizo sausage. But before you head to Wolf Trap with the pot under your arm, bear in mind that you’ll still need to cook the beasts yourself (in the pot provided).
Comments from Examiner Readers
4:42 PM MST on Wed., May. 21, 2008 re: "Sushi-Ko: On a roll"
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6:29 AM MST on Tue., May. 13, 2008
re: "Food that rocks"
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Examiner Reader said:
Sounds tasty!
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Examiner Reader said:
The 9:30 Club's food is good enough to go just for that. The best kept secret, until now...
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