$10 bottomless beers, red-hot wings a Noble pursuit

BALTIMORE (Map, News) - If you can look beyond a waitress pulling your table out of a wall a la a Murphy bed, you’ll enjoy yourself at Federal Hill’s latest reincarnated watering hole.

It’s best to think of Nobles Restaurant and Grill as more of a bar that serves food rather than a foodie’s ultimate destination.

The Charles Street spot, formerly Drifters Raw Bar and before that Bandaloops, opened in late April after undergoing floor, bar and decor renovations.

Owners Danny Pirog and Nick Marshall, who brought us Drifters three years ago, are the men behind Nobles.

The scene

Nobles’ exterior suggests cramped dive. But a first look from the curb is deceiving — for the most part. Nobles’ cozy front bar and wooden flooring give way to a sunken new back bar, at least 20 feet in length. Surplus space beyond that bar and to the right appears to be the owners’ next area to renovate. Tables in the tucked-away space would be a great addition. From Nobles’ second floor on the way to the dance floor and second bar, you can peek at diners and barflies below. The setup allows sunshine from skylights to reach the bottom floor. The natural light cascading onto the exposed brick wall and neon beer signs behind the bar is a breath of fresh air.

The taste

The Wings from Hell ($7.99) earned their name. Drenched in an addictive, fiery hot sauce with strong notes of cayenne and vinegar, the petite yet meaty morsels would satisfy the most experienced chicken wing connoisseur. The Chesapeake Burger (normally $8.95 but half-priced on Wednesdays) was well-executed but not groundbreaking. Kudos to the cook who nailed medium rare, an order often under- or overcooked. Atop the hunk of seasoned ground beef, melted shredded cheese encased a small portion of adequate crab dip. The highlight of the simple dish was a generous portion of classic-cut fries — golden and crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. An inch-deep, overstuffed grilled chicken quesadilla failed to impress except for its chunks of firm tomato and seared strips of red pepper and onion.

The pour

Nobles takes cost-effective drinking to new heights with its infamous $10 all-you-can-drink special every Friday from 6 to 9 p.m.

Why you’ll go

The service is snappy, the diverse crowd friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the prices as low as they go.

Why you won’t

Hordes of drinkers pack the bar on weekends.

jnovak@baltimoreexaminer.com

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