Catonsville Gourmet: Not ready for the big city

BALTIMORE (Map, News) - Catonsville Gourmet Market and Fine Foods has been the talk of the small town of Catonsville since its grand opening on March 6. The restaurant offers freshly caught and prepared seafood, as well as a raw bar and steamer area.

- The scene: Catonsville Gourmet was originally the old Muir Hardware Store, transformed by owners Sean Dunworth and Rob Rehmert. The white clapboard and pale blue walls give off a clean cottage feel.

While the waitstaff gave excellent service, the hostess stand was a mess — three young women rushing around trying to do too many things at once left customers standing impatiently, waiting for their names to be taken.

- The pour: The restaurant is currently applying for a liquor license, but in the meantime, 21-and-over patrons can bring in whatever type of alcohol they want for a flat $5 fee.

- The taste: The meal began with a salty lobster bisque, which was good overall but could have used a bit more texture and a thicker base. The crab and lobster dip came out steaming hot, with a pile of gooey cheese and a half-loaf of sliced baguette. Thick and creamy, the dip was filled with chunks of crab and lobster meat.

The fisherman’s special included samples of halibut, salmon filet and orange roughy with two sides of garlic potatoes and sauteed baby carrots. Although nothing really stood out about the dish, it was satisfying and fresh.

The lobster mac and cheese, which was highly recommended by several employees, was quite a disappointment. The cheese was overcooked, making for a more rubbery than creamy texture, and there were about three flakes of lobster included.

Ham, shrimp and crab were the three main ingredients in the seafood quiche, which also wasn’t much to talk about. There was a good balance of crust with filling, and the quiche itself tasted like ... quiche.

- The finishing touch: The dish we were most impressed by was the Smith Island cake — creamy chocolate and peanut butter icing smushed between 10 thin layers of moist yellow cake. Unfortunately for Catonsville Gourmet, the dessert was created at Sugarbakers — the bakery next door.

- Why you will go: Although prices are steep, there’s something quite charming about Catonsville Gourmet — the impeccable waitstaff, the upscale menu and the quaint atmosphere all contribute to why the restaurant has been crowded with people since day one.

- Why you won’t: The noise level — we practically had to shout over our table to hold a conversation. And while the food is enjoyable, it’s certainly overpriced.

ecampbell@baltimoreexaminer.com

Advertisement