SAN FRANCISCO (Map, News) - In a saloon town such as San Francisco, the bartender plays a crucial role. Confessor, friend, sounding board – the man or woman behind the plank sees to it that our needs are met with elegance, grace and often wit. They see humanity at its best and most convivial, but also offer a nod and a welcome to the lonely. But what do they see when they look at us? What are the tricks of their trade? And what lessons have they learned along the way? In this Examiner weekly feature, we talk to some of our local bartenders to find out.

McCormick & Kuleto’s

900 North Point St., San Francisco; (415) 929-1730; www.mccormickandschmicks.com

The last time we had dinner at McCormick & Kuleto’s, darn it if we weren’t star-struck when the San Francisco Twins trotted past our table. Yes, San Francisco royalty prances through this palatial eatery on a regular basis, but none of them are as regal as Karl Strandfeldt, the establishment’s revered bartender. One of the most knowledgeable guys we’ve ever met, Strandfeldt got his start at Henry Africa’s, one of The City’s first and most famous “fern bars.” Besides learning the ins and outs of making a fine cocktail, Strandfeldt steadily built an artillery of entertaining anecdotes, which he might share if you’re lucky. We understand that taking your belle or beau out to one of The City’s top-tier seafood restaurants can be a pricey affair to remember, but we were pleasantly surprised by McCormick & Kuleto’s modestly priced happy-hour appetizer menu. Ahi tuna tartare and coconut prawns are $3.95 each, veggie egg rolls and a nice plate of hummus are a mere $1.95 each. The catch? It’s only Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p.m. We’ll leave work early.

How long have you tended the bar here? I have been here since it opened 17 years ago. I think the 19th of July — yeah, that was our first day. I’ve been here ever since. It’s a little like the mafia; every time I go to leave, I get sucked back in.

Where are you from originally? Manhattan.

Oh, wow. That must’ve been fun. It was an education. I was born on the West Side, and then we moved to the north shore of Long Island. And that’s where I grew up. I came out here in the mid-70s. And I lived in Chicago for awhile. I was there for four years; it’s a great town. And then you get to that point in your 20s when someone says to you, “Hey, you wanna move to California?” Never look back.

Since you’ve been here from the get-go, what are the more memorable moments you’ve had behind the bar? This is a destination location. We’ve just met a lot of great locals and a lot of great tourists. It’s all about welcoming people and wanting them to come back.

What’s a good welcome drink for people visiting San Francisco for the first time? I’d probably make them a [San Francisco] Lemon Drop. It’s a great drink. We always call it a sour candy with a little bit of punch to it.

Why is it a “San Francisco” Lemon drop? Our company believes [this variation of the drink] was invented by Henry Africa’s. So I started interviewing people, and they didn’t know who made it. So it was decided that we all made it.

And then, what would be a good bon voyage drink? If they’ve had snacks, or dinner, probably something like a port, sherry or an Irish Coffee.

If I sat down and told you, “I’m very cold but have had a great day, and I want a drink that is sipped, but not too sweet,” what would you make me? We have one drink that is like a hot apple pie. It’s hot apple cider, and you add Tuaca vanilla bean liqueur, nutmeg, cinnamon and top with whip cream.

What’s the most unusual cocktail you’ve made? In San Francisco, it’s the Pecan Punch. Herb Caen used to drink it. It’s made in an Irish Coffee glass, with a touch of grenadine, to just coat the glass. Add ice and pecan liqueur, soda water and stir. Float brandy on top of it with a twist of lemon.

Featured drink: San Francisco Lemon Drop

» ¾ oz. fresh-squeezed lemon juice

» ½ oz. simple syrup

» 1½ ozs. Absolut Citron

» ¼ oz. to ½ oz. Cointreau

Shake together and serve straight up in a sugar-rimmed martini glass.

Comments from Examiner Readers

12:17 AM MST on Sat., May. 17, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Joel Baker, Bourbon and Branch"

johnflarkey said:
It's just the 501 Club (dive) with different name and a different face

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10:00 PM MST on Sat., May. 3, 2008 re: "Meet your mixologist: Karl Strandfeldt, McCormick & Kuleto�s"

jossy said:
Just to let you know. The proper spelling of the last drink you detailed ia PICON. It is the name of the person who developed the main part of the drink--Picon--a bitter aperitif. Picon has been around since the mid 1800's. While Herb Caen may have had the drink it was around for many, many years prior to Mr. Caen. It is a traditional drink of the Basque and the Italians. Unfortunately, the French no longer import Picon. If someone makes the drink now, it is made with a poor substitute or they bring the Picon over from France.

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11:23 AM MST on Sat., Mar. 29, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Robvell Smith, Rose Pistola"

Examiner Reader said:
It's true that Robvell is not only the best bartender in SF, he's one of the world's nicest people. Best time to try his special cocktails, however is after 10 on Saturday night when the action at the bar is still hot but the tourist crowd in the restaurant has died down. Then he might even make a Chocolate Love for you (if you really deserve it!)

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4:31 PM MST on Fri., Feb. 29, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Tim Stookey, Presidio Social Club"

Examiner Reader said:
It is great to see Mr. Stookey get some props. Regarding comments above: There may be good women bartenders in the city, but nobody M,F,TG or whatever makes a drink mike he does. Most of the drinks are not $12 (okay maybe $10), but such is life in the city. That's not much more than a lousy drink elsewhere, 1/6th of a parking ticket, or 2 trips over a bridge. I'd rather nurse a fine drink for 30 minutes than pay $15 for a 'green' movie ticket at the Sundance Kabuki any day... Tim can turn cheap liquor into a fine drink, but fortunately he is well researched and knows how to find a good booze for the buck. He is thoroughly unpretentious & I find it a nice change to have a well-made, well-presented tasty drink from a serious professional than the slapped together *&^%$# that most of the 20-somethings try to pass off for a $10 cocktail in this city. After a day of crowds, jerks in line, and all the other indignities one suffers to live in this city, a drink from Tim is very civil

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3:44 PM MST on Fri., Feb. 29, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Tim Stookey, Presidio Social Club"

Michelle Lester said:
why are all the bartenders featured in this column MEN? I know alot of great mixologists (myself included) that are female!

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10:03 AM MST on Fri., Feb. 8, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Andrea Campos"

Concerned Examiner Reader said:
Peskin in a bar? How shocking! Was he using his cell phone to berate anyone?

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12:06 AM MST on Fri., Nov. 30, 2007 re: "Meet your mixologist - Jake McClain"

Examiner Reader said:
As a blue collar working class person I'm absolutely disgusted by people who think it's hip and chic to sip 12 dollar cocktails. Paying that amount of money for a cocktail is just sickening, decadent really. Especially in a city full of homeless people.

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