SAN FRANCISCO (Map, News) - In a saloon town such as San Francisco, the bartender plays a crucial role. Confessor, friend, sounding board — the man or woman behind the plank sees to it that our needs are met with elegance, grace and often wit. They see humanity at its best and most convivial, but also offer a nod and a welcome to the lonely. But what do they see when they look at us? What are the tricks of their trade? And what lessons have they learned along the way? In this Examiner weekly feature, we talk to some of our local bartenders to find out.

Brick

1085 Sutter St., San Francisco; (415) 441-4232; www.brickrestaurant.com

Sprucing up the corner of Sutter and Larkin streets is Brick, a cozy little (ahem) brick-walled restaurant, where we mixed up conversation and cocktails with Ryan Fitzgerald. The bar wizard studied film at UC Santa Barbara, where he said he learned a little bit of film production but mainly focused on theory. He eventually worked his way up the coast to San Francisco, where he got his start in bartending at Bissap Boabab, a divey Senegalese restaurant in the Mission district. Fitzgerald proved to be a quick study and from there served a ritzier clientele at Foreign Cinema and, later, Bourbon and Branch. Fitzgerald’s a pretty mellow dude, but he won’t tolerate bad drink orders. If you have a hankering for Blue Hawaiis and Flaming Doctor Peppers, you should probably keep walking, or at least be open to one of his delicious suggestions.

Are you from the Bay Area originally? I’m from Southern California. Laguna Nigel in Orange County, the O.C. — which none of us actually call it.

So it was the show that prompted the abbreviation? I guess. That’s the first time I heard of it. But Orange County is a massive place.

Now, you studied film theory in college but have since made a career in bartending. I realized you can’t make any money if you write about films, and if you’re the filmmaker, you have to deal with the actors, directors, etc.; some of the biggest egos in the world. I just knew I’d spend a good five years kissing butts and then maybe get to make my film.

Did you get to see any of the filming for the “Milk” movie? Oh yeah. I live in the Lower Haight, so I saw them filming.

Speaking of theatrics, what would you consider the most obnoxious cocktail you’ve ever made? I refuse to make obnoxious drinks.

You straight-up just say no? Yes. A Red-Headed Stepchild, Jägerbomb, Pink Squirrel ... more than refusing to make them, I’ll suggest an alternative.

What’s even in a Red-Headed Stepchild? I don’t know. When I was at Tres Agaves, I had a guy order it, and I said, “We don’t make that here.” Then he said, “What about Irish Coffee?” I said, “Brother, I think you’re in the wrong place.”

What do you typically order? A classic Negroni. Or, I drink tequila straight all the time.

Is drinking tequila straight the sign of a bad day? No, no, never! It’s probably the sign that I’m at a place that I don’t trust.

I take it this place’s name refers to that brick wall over there? Yep.

What do you pour yourself when you hit a brick wall, creatively speaking? Tequila is always my drink of choice. It’s complex. There are so many types of tequila, and tequila just makes you happy. Tequila is a good buzz.

If you could have a drink with anyone, who would it be? Bill Murray. I’d have a good time talking to him. I know what I’d make him, too. In “Groundhog Day,” he copies the woman’s drink order — sweet vermouth on the rocks with a twist — and he hates it.

What’s the best tip you’ve ever received? A guy at Tres Agaves once bought me a shot of tequila that at the time was $400 a shot. He bought one for me, himself, and of course he tipped on that, so $800 for two cocktails and a nice tip on top of that.

Featured drink: The Dinner Jacket

» 2 oz. Junipero Gin

» ½ oz. Crème de Cassis

» 1 oz. dry white whine

» 2 dashes of Fee Brothers orange bitters

Stir (don’t shake) ingredients together. Serve up with a broad lemon twist.

Comments from Examiner Readers

10:00 PM MST on Sat., May. 3, 2008 re: "Meet your mixologist: Karl Strandfeldt, McCormick & Kuleto�s"

jossy said:
Just to let you know. The proper spelling of the last drink you detailed ia PICON. It is the name of the person who developed the main part of the drink--Picon--a bitter aperitif. Picon has been around since the mid 1800's. While Herb Caen may have had the drink it was around for many, many years prior to Mr. Caen. It is a traditional drink of the Basque and the Italians. Unfortunately, the French no longer import Picon. If someone makes the drink now, it is made with a poor substitute or they bring the Picon over from France.

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11:23 AM MST on Sat., Mar. 29, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Robvell Smith, Rose Pistola"

Examiner Reader said:
It's true that Robvell is not only the best bartender in SF, he's one of the world's nicest people. Best time to try his special cocktails, however is after 10 on Saturday night when the action at the bar is still hot but the tourist crowd in the restaurant has died down. Then he might even make a Chocolate Love for you (if you really deserve it!)

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4:31 PM MST on Fri., Feb. 29, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Tim Stookey, Presidio Social Club"

Examiner Reader said:
It is great to see Mr. Stookey get some props. Regarding comments above: There may be good women bartenders in the city, but nobody M,F,TG or whatever makes a drink mike he does. Most of the drinks are not $12 (okay maybe $10), but such is life in the city. That's not much more than a lousy drink elsewhere, 1/6th of a parking ticket, or 2 trips over a bridge. I'd rather nurse a fine drink for 30 minutes than pay $15 for a 'green' movie ticket at the Sundance Kabuki any day... Tim can turn cheap liquor into a fine drink, but fortunately he is well researched and knows how to find a good booze for the buck. He is thoroughly unpretentious & I find it a nice change to have a well-made, well-presented tasty drink from a serious professional than the slapped together *&^%$# that most of the 20-somethings try to pass off for a $10 cocktail in this city. After a day of crowds, jerks in line, and all the other indignities one suffers to live in this city, a drink from Tim is very civil

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3:44 PM MST on Fri., Feb. 29, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Tim Stookey, Presidio Social Club"

Michelle Lester said:
why are all the bartenders featured in this column MEN? I know alot of great mixologists (myself included) that are female!

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10:03 AM MST on Fri., Feb. 8, 2008 re: "Meet Your Mixologist: Andrea Campos"

Concerned Examiner Reader said:
Peskin in a bar? How shocking! Was he using his cell phone to berate anyone?

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12:06 AM MST on Fri., Nov. 30, 2007 re: "Meet your mixologist - Jake McClain"

Examiner Reader said:
As a blue collar working class person I'm absolutely disgusted by people who think it's hip and chic to sip 12 dollar cocktails. Paying that amount of money for a cocktail is just sickening, decadent really. Especially in a city full of homeless people.

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