WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Bice, the Northern Italian chain that began in Milan in 1926, once had a popular outpost in downtown Washington. But thanks to the real estate market, the company picked up its stakes there in the mid-1990s. The intervening years have seen its concept swell to 24 locations worldwide, the latest being right back in the Washington area in downtown Bethesda, at the space formerly occupied by the ill-fated Old Homestead Steakhouse.

   

» The Scene:

Call it corporate chic. White tablecloths, heavy wooden chairs, huge chandeliers and hulking flower arrangements that look like they were lifted from the Amazon rain forest dominate the massive dining room.

» The Pour:

The wine list here is a bit of a letdown: Most categories comprise only a few bottles, many of which you will have seen before. What’s worse, a lot of those bottles are sold at expense-account-worthy markups.

» The Taste:

Don’t expect a chain of this size to reinvent the wheel that is Italian-American cuisine. Old, yawn-inducing favorites like eggplant parmigiana and veal scaloppine dot the menu. Branzino baked in parchment with vegetables and olives was ho-hum, and the kitchen seemed to forget the seasonings on some of the starters, including a green bean and lima bean salad with shrimp and calamari. Still, I found myself pleased, even impressed with many of the offerings, original or not. Beef carpaccio, served with arugula in a parmesan basket, had loads more flavor than the usual cold and bland versions of the dish. And starches really shine here. Asparagus risotto with sea scallops was a perfect al dente, the sauce pleasantly creamy. Spaghetti Bolognese was rich and earthy, while pappardelle with mozzarella, basil and tomato cream sauce was letter-perfect. For dessert, try the flatbread with carmelized pear, almond, Nutella and gelato.

» The Touch:

Service here, led by waiters in suits, is on the formal side. And management has a mind for detail, as seen in extra flourishes like the purse stools for ladies.

» Don’t miss:

The flatbreads — crispy, thin pizza crusts piled high with toppings like arugula and prosciutto — are a steal at $9 and an ideal after-work bar snack.

» Why you won’t go:

Because this could be the worst location in downtown Bethesda. Don’t let the Wisconsin Avenue address fool you: getting here requires turning off Wisconsin to the side of the building (plus a U-turn if you’re coming from the south) going through the building’s parking garage, up the elevator and through its lobby.

» Why you will go:

Because there are several ways to eat here, no matter your taste or pocketbook. Prices range from $12 pastas to $28 for entrees.

Bice

7501 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda

301-654-2250, bice.ws

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 5 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Appetizers, salads and flatbreads: $9 to $24; pasta and risotto: $12 to $22; entrees: $28 to $47

Bottom line: Despite the challenging surroundings, you can find plenty to like on the menu.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com