Downtown D.C. has caught a case of bistro-mania. Just in the last year, we’ve seen Central, Cafe du Parc, Marvin and Brasserie Beck join the ranks of those serving mussels, roast chicken and steak frites.

Now, the Sofitel Hotel checks in with a renovated and rebranded dining room, called Ici (French for “here”).

To execute the concept, the hotel brought in Brittany native Philippe Piel as executive chef. Piel has the right pedigree: He cooked at the three-Michelin-starred Le Buerehiesel in France under chef Antoine Westermann (who happens also to consult for Cafe du Parc). But more importantly, he was one of the opening chefs at Cafe 15, the Sofitel’s previous restaurant, five years ago.

» The scene:

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Le Bar, Ici’s accompanying lounge, has long been among the city’s sexiest hotel bars, drawing as chic an after-work crowd as you’re likely to find downtown. It’s a bit more subdued in the dining room, although you’ll find the same modern design including muted colors, bare tables, an elevated communal table in the center of the room and new artwork.

» The pour:

In a cute twist, cocktails are divided into categories labeled “For Her” and “For Him,” although to be quite honest, neither section’s choices seemed particularly masculine. In the back of the wine list, you’ll find pages of maps of the world’s great wine regions. This is something more restaurants should do, although I wish I could say the selections were as impressive as the geography lesson. Most styles and regions are represented by only a scant couple of bottles. And prices are high, too: At a French restaurant, I ought to be able to buy a bottle of French red for less than $55.

» The taste:

This is a menu with some notable hits as well as some critical misses. Among the former: tender sea scallops with apples and baby spinach, a spinach quiche spiked with goat cheese and basil oil, a rich duck and white bean cassoulet and great rendition of steak fries, made with a prime New York strip. And those fries! The addictive little spuds are fried golden brown and come in six varieties, from straight up to parsley and garlic to Cajun. On the other hand, wild mushroom risotto with truffle oil missed the mark, its grains of rice undercooked and its sauce too soupy. A traditional pot-au-feu soup was thin and bland. And fish dishes — like halibut with baby shrimp, mussel and white wine cream sauce — have a “been there, done that” quality.

» The touch:

Even while not always efficient, servers in the dining room are engaging and give spot-on recommendations. Not so in the chronically understaffed Le Bar, where you may give up before ever getting a drink.

» Don’t miss:

The “mini” croque monsieur. The decadent ham-and-Swiss sandwich, gooey with cheese and bechamel sauce, isn’t low-fat, nor is it “mini,” served on two massive slices of bread and carved into six squares. But boy is it good.

» Why you won’t go:

At only 60 seats, it can fill up quickly, especially if the hotel is full.

» Why you will go:

Because the outdoor patio is now open for business on this pleasant, tree-lined section of 15th Street.

Ici Urban Bistro

806 15th St. NW

202-730-8700

www.iciurbanbistro.com

» Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner: 6 to 10 p.m. daily; Sunday brunch: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

» Prices: Soup, salad and appetizers: $8 to $16; entrees: $18 to $29

» Bottom line: A new downtown spot that’s worth a visit, as long as you order carefully.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com