BALTIMORE (Map, News) - Grano pasta bar is almost too good to be true. At the new restaurant/carryout on the Avenue in Hampden, you get platefuls of tender noodles and tasty, fresh sauces for less than $10.

But the affordable price doesn't mean low-caliber ingredients.

Gino Troia, Naples native and Baltimore chef and restaurateur, opened the Italian eatery in February. His concept is charmingly simple: Give patrons the choice of six noodles and seven sauces to pair on their own or with guidance from his eager-to-please staff.

The scene: One foot into Grano, and you've walked into its kitchen. Though the cozy restaurant uses its small space efficiently, it can only seat 11 diners at a time. The majority of seats, folding metal chairs with blond wood backs, are at the high counter in view of the chef concocting sauces on the gas-burning stovetop. The bar's height makes it impossible to eat with your elbows off the table and quite difficult for shorter diners to twirl their noodles without spraining a wrist.

The taste: Grano served its $6 eggless Caesar salad, a hearty serving of crisp hearts of romaine, on a chilled plate with a large dose of grated cheese and a light yet creamy Caesar dressing. The vodka sauce, made with onions, b'chamel, pecorino romano, vodka and tomato puree, was solid but not as spicy or flavorful as some diners may like. It couldn't compete with the impressive tomato-based bolognese, close to a stew in consistency and boasting seasoned celery, onions, carrots and tasty chunks of ground beef.

The pour: At the moment, the pasta bar only offers cold cans of Diet Coke served in a plastic cup or bottles of Perrier.

Finishing touch: Every element in Grano's heavenly tiramisu is delectable, but its mouth-watering, sweet ladyfingers drenched in espresso are phenomenal. The traditional Italian dessert, served with a plump, fresh strawberry, sliced but held together at the stem, is near perfect.

Don't miss: Half-pint, to-go containers of pomodoro, puttanesca, bolognese, pesto, vodka and gorgonzola and walnut sauces.

Why you'll go: $7 for a satisfying, top-notch meal in a relaxing place is unbeatable.

Why you won't: Given Grano's limited space and universal appeal, a line for a seat can easily grow out the door.

IF YOU GO

Grano

Where: 1031 W. 36th St., Baltimore

When: Open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and noon to 7 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Entrees $7 to $10, salads $5 to $6, desserts $3.50 to $4.50, sauces per half-pint to go $2.50 to $6

Info: 443-869-3429

jnovak@baltimoreexaminer.com