Canton (Map, News) - Saute won't be a flash in the pan if it continues to experiment with its menu. The American bistro in Canton opened in late February and offers a high- end atmosphere and affordably priced seasonal dishes.

European influences appear in the ever-evolving lunch and dinner menus.

At the moment, Saute's most popular appetizers and entrees are the Parmesan fried oysters, pulled duckling nachos, Thai shrimp, the ultimate meatloaf and Saute's tuna, served with smashed cauliflower, olive sauce and a creamy garlic nage.

The scene: The ubercool, contemporary and inviting atmosphere boasts brown and muted lime-green tones in the wood-paneled walls, light fixtures, leather chairs, tabletops, booth cushions and tile accents. A portion of the bar is see-through, allowing patrons to peer into the bar from the rectangular dining area.

The pour: Saute is a drinker's delight with every liquor imaginable and a dozen beers on tap including Leffe, Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, Clipper City's Holy Sheet and Hard Core Cider.

The taste: Every dish on Saute's menu is made from scratch with seasonal ingredients bought from local suppliers. The pulled duckling nachos didn't earn their reputation as one of the most popular appetizers. The melted Vermont cheddar had the unpleasant consistency of a creamy yet grainy gravy. The strips of dark, oily duck were salty but didn't spoil the thick, crispy seasoned tortillas. The star ingredient of the grilled ham and Gruyere cheese was the soft, melt- in-your mouth flatbread. Unfortunately, it couldn't mask the strong Dijon mustard - slathered with a heavy hand. Fondue fries sounded like a welcome break from the old standards but failed to impress because they offered more Vermont cheddar - drizzled on top. The smoked-turkey panini, plated with regular fries, was enjoyable but unremarkable.

The finishing touch: The chocolate mousse was the perfect consistency, a balance between pudding and buttercream frosting. Banana and raspberry sauces cut through the nearly addictingly thick, rich flavor.

Don't miss: The ubercool front booth.

Why you will go: As far as creative dishes go, the bistro easily beats other Canton Square restaurants.

Why you won't go: Saute goes overboard on certain ingredients and arguably tries too hard to be different.

Saute

Where: 2844 Hudson St., Canton

Info: 410-327-2883

Pricing: $30 to $50 (includes appetizers, entrees and dessert)

ecampbell@baltimoreexaminer.com jnovak@baltimoreexaminer.com