As Equinox entered its 10th year, Chef Todd Gray and his wife, co-proprietor Ellen Gray, were faced with a decision: renew their lease, or seek out new digs for their next decade in business.

Ultimately, they stuck with the downtown space that had served them so well, but they resolved to change the dining experience for their patrons.

They set about renovating the interior of the restaurant earlier this year — without closing, thank you very much — and took a fresh look at the menu as well.

Chef Gray had grown concerned that meals at Equinox were too drawn out, so he added a la carte dining and replaced the chef’s tasting menu with what he calls the “Market Table Menu,” which reflects currently available ingredients.

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» The scene:

The Grays enlisted architect Jordan Goldstein to update the dining room. Most notably, he added a gas fireplace that separates the main dining room from the glass-enclosed atrium, which itself was dressed up with draped white fabric on the ceiling. New lighting and flooring complete the picture.

» The pour:

Unlike most restaurants of this caliber, Equinox’s wine list doesn’t resemble a phone book. It’s rather modest, offering a dozen or so well-selected bottles from each major grape varietal. Prices are modest, too: Most bottles here check in at less than three figures (yes, there is a reserve list for you big spenders).

» The taste:

Chef Gray has always been near-obsessed with the provenance of his meat, fish and produce, listing not only the states from which they hail, but often the specific farms. Nowadays he’s even working with farmers to engineer his own meat and vegetables.

In keeping with this artisinal outlook, Gray’s cooking isn’t experimental or revolutionary: You won’t see a spring pea foam, “lollipops” of foie gras or any “deconstructed” dishes here. Rather, his strength is seasonal, regional American cuisine, as solid and consistent as it comes.

Taylor Bay scallops are set atop thin slices of impossibly sweet beets. In a dish that should set vegetarians’ hearts aflutter, saffron egg noodles are tossed with gorgonzola cream and a “Bolognese” of wild mushrooms. On the vegetarian menu, Gray creates a “strudel” of early spring vegetables. Fans of the meaty crab cakes won’t be disappointed — they’re still around, dressed up with popcorn-studded mascarpone grits.

Not everything sings: A squid-ink pappardelle with clams, mussels and shrimp was dull and lacked cohesion. And a rack of pork, though well-supported by springy fiddlehead ferns and pickled garlic, was far too dry on the plate.

» The touch:

Service here is efficient and professional — even to a fault. Every time I visit, I find myself wishing my server would drop the robot act and warm up a bit.

» Don’t miss:

The tiny ravioli of roasted veal, tossed with a green lentil ragout, garlic cream and pecorino cheese — the best pasta I’ve tasted in months.

» Why you won’t go:

Because you’re a red meat kind of guy. Although the menu changes weekly, you may not find much, if any, beef on it, although you will most certainly see lamb and duck.

» Why you will go:

Because the portions are sensible. Even at $33 an entree, I don’t need 1,000 calories per plate. I like that I can finish what’s in front of me and not be in pain when I’m done.

Equinox

818 Connecticut Ave. NW

202-331-8118

www.equinoxrestaurant.com

» Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday; 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday

» Prices: First courses and “mid” courses: $12 to $19; pastas and entrees: $29 to $33. “Market table” menu: $80 ($115 with wine pairings); vegetarian market menu: $65 ($100 with wine pairings)

» Bottom line: One of Washington’s top American dining rooms gets a face-lift and some fresh ways to experience Todd Gray’s food.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com