Nature’s jewels shine

BALTIMORE (Map, News) - Black winter delicacies that grow beneath the ground in France are on Charleston’s tables in Baltimore.

Cindy Wolf, executive chef at Charleston, recently introduced the highly prized perigord truffles to her menu. They’ll be available while at their highest perfume — most likely for one more week.

At Charleston, Wolf uses classic French techniques and seasonal ingredients to create dishes from scratch, such as the cornmeal fried oysters with lemon-cayenne mayonnaise and the pan-roasted magret duck breast, barolo risotto and andouille sausage.

Charleston is one of four restaurants Wolf, a 2006 James Beard Foundation nominee for Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic, owns and oversees with husband Tony Foreman.

Q Why truffles?

A I spent the first 10 days of January in France, [where perigord truffles grow], and felt very inspired. I honestly believe truffles are addicting. You have to acquire a taste for them, but once you do, you just want to keep eating them.

Q Your menu is designed for improvisational dining. What does that mean?

A The tasting menu allows you to eat a number of small courses depending upon your appetite and what the evening is all about for you. It’s divided into cold, hot, fish & shellfish, birds & game, meats and cheeses. Most chefs set the menu; I allow you to pick anything you want. It’s challenging to the kitchen, but not for the guests. That’s why we’re here. I want to make you happy. But if you want guidance, you can pick my menu, The Season. It takes the guesswork out of it.

Q What’s next for you?

A To write a cookbook and keep moving the menu forward at Charleston.

Q What advice would you give to young chefs?

A If you’re going to go to culinary school, get as much experience as you can before you go. So many people are watching the Food Network, but it’s not a reflection of what it’s like to be in the restaurant business. You can’t party all the time. You need to be a disciplined adult to be a good chef ... You should work in good kitchens successively for at least a year, if not two, at each. You have to know how [a restaurant] operates from food cost to labor standpoint. You have to be creative as well as a businessperson.

If you go

Charleston

» Where: 1000 Lancaster St., Baltimore

» Info: 410-332-7373, charlestonrestaurant.com

jnovak@baltimoreexaminer.com

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