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Chef Erik Cosselmon oversees San Francisco's Kokkari and Evvia, but some dishes are different. At dinner at Kokkari, Cosselmon offers pikti, a warm terrine of Berkshire pig trotters and headmeat ($10), two round slices of headcheese studded with little melting cubes of fat and toothsome bits of gelatin. It's luscious. Grilled lambs’ tongue ($8), split in half, are licked by the fire and sauced with lemon, capers and olive oil. Even carnivores like me love grilled skewers of creamy eggplant and baby artichokes ($10) served with thick Greek yogurt. Kokkari also features a daily lunch special ($13); I make it a point to drop in Wednesdays for the rice- and veal-stuffed cabbage rolls in creamy lemon sauce. Finally, Kokkari makes one of my favorite desserts, yogurt sorbet paired with crystalline frozen strawberry granita drizzled with mint syrup ($6.50). As at Evvia, a spring lamb turns in a fireplace every afternoon — reason enough to get to either of these two Greek restaurants in May.

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